M2A1 Bradley

Subject:
M2A1 Bradley
Kit Used: DML 1/72

Review & model by:
Ian Dow
Pictures: R. Forys

History: The Bradley IFV was designed to meet several important requirements. Most importantly, to be as fast as the new M1 Abrams main battle tank so that they could maintain formations while moving. This was something that the older M113 Armored Personnel Carrier could not do, as it had been designed to complement the older, slower M60 Patton. It also needed to serve as both an APC, and a tank-killer, in response mainly to the Soviet BMP family of infantry fighting vehicles.

The 25 mm cannon fires up to 200 rounds per minute and is accurate up to 2500 m depending on the ammunition used (HE or APDS-T). The twin TOW2B missiles are capable of destroying most hostile tanks at a maximum range of 3750 m. However, a large drawback of the TOW is that it can only be fired while the vehicle is stationary. The Bradley also carries an M240C coaxial 7.62 mm medium machine gun, located to the right of the 25 mm chain gun.

The vehicle hull is of aluminum construction, one of the points used by critics to deride the vehicle. Aluminum armor tends to vaporize in the face of HEAT warheads; this and the storage of large quantities of ammunition in the vehicle initially raised questions about its combat survivability. Spaced laminate belts and high hardness steel skirts have been added to later versions to improve armor protection, although this increases overall weight to 33 tons. Actual combat operations, however, have not shown the Bradley to be overtly deficient as losses have been few. In friendly fire incidents in Desert Storm, many crewmembers survived hits that resulted in total losses for the lighter USMC LAV 25 vehicles.

The Bradley series has been widely modified. Its chassis is the basis for the M270 Multiple Launch Rocket System, the M4 C2V battlefield command post, and the M6 Bradley Linebacker air defense vehicle. Armed with a quad Stinger surface to air missile launcher, (instead of the TOW anti-tank missiles) and maintaining the 25 mm autocannon, the M6 Bradley Linebacker Air Defense Vehicle possesses a unique role in the U.S. Army, providing highly mobile air defense at the front line. All are highly capable in cross-country open terrain, in accordance with one of the main design objectives of keeping pace with the M1 Abrams main battle tank. Its suspension system has even been used on upgraded versions of the US Marines' Amphibious Assault Vehicle.

The Kit: The kit is the early release from DML of the M2A1 Bradley. For the most part it goes together with the ease of most of these Dragon kits. The kit has some oversimplified details along with some very good detail. One of the main complaints about many of these kits is that they go to great effort to add some small detail but continue to have molded on pioneer tools and blobby details in some areas. Still for the most part these can be assembled straight out of the box with nothing added, and they will build up into a very nice little model.

For this model I wanted slightly more detail, so I added the Eduard Photo-etch set and the Legend Stowage set for the Bradley. The Eduard set is very nice with many latches, tie-down points, visor shields, screens, and tools. The Legend set is also very nice because it has packs and bags that are modeled to fit the Bradley along its turret and deck without looking like they were just glued on.

Painting: This was the first desert color vehicle I had painted so I went to the local hobby store and found the Model Master color that said "Marine Desert Sand", figured that should about do it. As an undercoat I used Polly S railroad colors and sprayed Milwaukee Box Car Red as a primer which is a little redder than rust. This gave it a nice undercoat and darkens all the crevices. Over that I sprayed the Desert Sand color and slowly faded it in to keep the lower areas darker and lighten the upper areas. After that I lightened the Desert Sand with a little off white added to the original color and sprayed that on the upper surfaces. Once I was satisfied with the color, I sealed it with future and added my decals. Then I sprayed with Testors dull coat and began the washing and weathering phase.

Most of my weathering begins with a very thin wash of sepia or van dyke brown oil paints diluted with thinner. This goes into all the cracks and crevices and is painted around all raised areas to create a shadow underneath. I then lightened the van dyke brown and added small dots of oil paint to the vehicle and swiped it down with a brush. This gives it the slightly rusty -faded-paint look. Several yellow, white, black, orange, red and brown pastel colors were combined in different combinations to just lightly dust the vehicle in areas to give it a dirty, dusty look.

Equipment: The equipment was painted different colors and I took a page from our club member Jim Hayes who points out that no two drums, packs, box or container should be the same color. They should all be slightly varied in color. I don't believe I got it right because there is not enough variation in the colors. I did make sure that all stowage, drums and equipment were secured with some type of tie down. These were made from string, or lead foil and then painted. The gun barrels were also drilled out. The flag was made from a piece of thinned copper painted black on both sides. On one side there is a skull on a black field and on the other side is a skull in a red circle.